Living in Geneva: neighbourhoods, cost of living and relocation

Geneva is a small city, squeezed into a tiny canton and surrounded by French territory along almost its entire border. This geography explains most things: the city is short of space, and its catchment area extends well beyond the border.

The left bank — Vieille-Ville, Eaux-Vives, Champel — brings together the most sought-after residential neighbourhoods. Champel is the quintessential upmarket area, close to the university hospital; the Eaux-Vives combines a central location, the lake and a strong neighbourhood life.

The right bank — Pâquis, Sécheron, Petit-Saconnex — is home to the international organisations and a very cosmopolitan population. The Pâquis, a dense, working-class neighbourhood, offers the most affordable rents in the city centre.

The municipalities of the canton — Carouge, Lancy, Vernier, Meyrin — extend the city. Carouge, with its Sardinian-style centre, is one of the most sought-after addresses in the canton; Meyrin, close to the European research centre, is home to a large scientific population.

Finally, neighbouring France — Annemasse, Saint-Julien, the Pays de Gex, Thonon — is the natural extension of the market. Rents there bear no comparison with those in the canton, at the cost of a daily border crossing and a separate tax and social security status.

We do not publish a median rent for Geneva: the cantonal statistics office publishes rent series, but we were unable to verify their current values directly. We do not use estimates from property management agencies, which are not official sources.

The dominant feature is scarcity. The canton's housing vacancy rate is among the lowest in Switzerland, and has been for a long time. Finding a home in Geneva is the main difficulty of relocating, even before its cost.

The application file is standardised and closely scrutinised: an extract from the debt enforcement register, an employer's certificate, a residence permit, sometimes a bank guarantee. An applicant with no Swiss history starts at a real disadvantage compared with local applicants.

Swiss tenancy law, on the other hand, is very protective once the lease is signed, and rents are linked to the reference mortgage rate. A sitting tenant enjoys a stability that few European markets offer.

As for buying, purchases by persons domiciled abroad require authorisation under the federal law known as the Lex Koller. A European resident holding a permit and actually living in Switzerland is exempt for their main residence.

Geneva regularly ranks among the most expensive cities in the world. Housing, restaurants, services and healthcare there bear no comparison with neighbouring France, and neither do salaries.

We do not publish a typical monthly budget: we have not found any official Geneva series measuring a basket of spending comparable to that of an expatriate.

Health insurance is the expense French newcomers underestimate most. It is mandatory, individual, taken out with a private insurer, and payable for every member of the household, including children. Its cost increases with age.

Tax is levied at three levels — Confederation, canton, municipality — and Geneva is not a low-tax canton. The choice of municipality within the canton has a measurable effect, but a smaller one than in other cantons.

A tax connection can arise quickly: federal law considers that a person is staying in Switzerland from 30 days⁴ with gainful activity, or 90 days⁵ without gainful activity.

Relative to its size, Geneva is one of the most international cities in the world, owing to the international organisations, non-governmental organisations and the banking and commodity trading sectors.

The French community there is very large, between residents of the canton and cross-border commuters. Proximity keeps the link with France constant, which sets Geneva apart from any other expatriation destination.

This proximity is also an administrative trap. Living in France and working in Geneva, or the reverse, places a household under separate tax and social security regimes, with specific rules depending on the canton and the type of employer. Confusing these situations is the most frequent source of errors.

The choice of schools is wide: Geneva state schools, the international school, French schools on the other side of the border. Each option has practical consequences for where you live, and the question should be dealt with early on.

The tram and bus network serves the canton well, and the cross-border rail network has considerably improved links with neighbouring France since it came into service.

The airport, a few minutes from the centre, has an entrance on the French side, a useful feature for residents of the region. There are direct rail links to Paris and Lyon.

The healthcare system is of a very high standard and entirely based on mandatory insurance. Geneva's university hospital is one of the main hospital centres in Switzerland.

• Residence permits are issued by the canton, not by the Confederation: the formalities are cantonal.
• Health insurance must be taken out within a short period after arrival, for each person in the household.
• Cross-border commuter status and resident status do not carry the same rights or the same obligations.
• Inheritances between spouses and, as a general rule, to direct descendants are exempt, at a rate of 0%⁶; the tax is cantonal.